UHillary Hoffpower ungumbhali onesipiliyoni seminyaka engaphezu kweyisithupha embonini yomshado.Umsebenzi wakhe uvele naku-The Bridal Guide naku-WeddingWire.
Kunezici eziningi okufanele zicatshangelwe lapho ufuna ingubo yomshado efanele, njengoba kunezitayela eziningi, ama-silhouettes, amaphuzu amanani, nabaklami abangakhetha kuzo.Kodwa-ke, uma unokuqonda okuyisisekelo kwezindwangu zokugqoka zomshado nokuthi uzigqoke nini, uzoba nesikhathi esilula sokwenza isinqumo sakho.
Ngokusho kochwepheshe bemfashini yomshado uMark Ingram, akuzona zonke izindwangu zezingubo zomshado ezifanayo, ikakhulukazi kuye ngokuthi isizini.“Abantu bathi izingubo zomshado ziphelelwe yisikhathi, kodwa lokho akulona iqiniso.”Izingubo ze-satin ezinzima, isibonelo, zihlala ziyisinqumo esingakhululekile ehlobo, njengama-sundresses ekotini ekwindla.Ukwamukela i-Ballroom kungase kubukeke kungafaneleki.“Yebo, umakoti unalo lonke ilungelo lokwenza nokukhetha lokho akuthandayo,” kunezela u-Ingram.Kodwa ngokubona kwami, uma kuziwa endabeni yengubo yakho yomshado nokuthi ibaluleke kangakanani osukwini lwakho, ngikhetha ukusebenzisa iningi lemithetho emidala yemikhuba emihle.”
Ngaphezu kwalokho, u-Ingram wachaza ukuthi isitayela kanye ne-silhouette yengubo ekugcineni inqume ukuqondiswa kwendwangu.Ezinye izinto ezisetshenziswayo zingcono kuzitayela ezihlelekile, ezinye zilungele ukubukeka okugelezayo, okunomoya, kanti ezinye zilungele izingubo zebhola eziyisithombe.“Izindwangu engizikhonzile engizosebenza ngazo yizindwangu ezihleleke kakhulu njenge-mikado, i-grosgrain ne-gazar,” kusho u-Ingram."Ngisebenza ngefomu kanye nesakhiwo, futhi lezi zindwangu zinikeza i-architectural kunokuba umuzwa wothando."
Ngakho-ke, ngaphambi kokuba uqale ukuthenga ingubo yomshado, bheka ukuthi yini ongayilindela ezinhlotsheni ezahlukene zezingubo zokugqoka zomshado namuhla.Okulandelayo, ngosizo lweseluleko sochwepheshe sika-Ingram, nakhu okudingeka ukwazi mayelana nezindwangu zezingubo zomshado ukukusiza ukutshela umehluko phakathi kwe-cambric ne-brocade.
UMark Ingram unguchwepheshe wemfashini yomakoti kanye nomlondolozi oneminyaka engaphezu kwengu-40 yesipiliyoni embonini.Ngaphezu komugqa wakhe ongaziwa wezingubo zomshado, ungumsunguli kanye ne-CEO kaMark Ingram Atelier, isaluni yomakoti eyaziwayo eNew York.
Le ndwangu yodwa ilula, ithambile, futhi yenziwe nge-plain weave, ngokuvamile njengembondela noma iveli.Ilungele intwasahlobo efudumele noma isimo sezulu sasehlobo, lokhu okuqukethwe kuyisibonelo sephathi yengadi eyinkimbinkimbi.
I-brocade ingenziwa kusuka kusilika noma imicu yokwenziwa futhi ibonakala ngama-jacquards (amaphethini aphakanyisiwe) alukwe endwangu.Njengoba impahla iminyene kodwa ilula kune-satin, ilungele ingubo ehlelekile engagqokwa emshadweni osemthethweni wasekwindla noma wasebusika.
Inothile futhi iyinkimbinkimbi njengoba negama liphakamisa, le ndwangu kanokusho inesiphetho esicwebezelayo kanye nengaphakathi le-matte.Ivamise ukwenziwa ngosilika (nakuba zikhona ezinye izindlela zokwenziwa), i-drape yayo ethambile iyenza idume ngezitayela ezigelezayo ezivame ukusikwa ngokuchema.“Izindwangu ezithambile, ezigobile, ezilingana kahle zivame ukugqokwa kangcono nezingubo ezixegayo, ezimpintshayo, noma ze-bodycon,” kusho u-Ingram.Le nto ekhanyayo kakhulu ifanele ukugqokwa unyaka wonke, kodwa ivamise ukuba yi-flirty okufanele ube nayo entwasahlobo nasehlobo.
I-Chiffon ingenye yezindwangu ezilula kakhulu futhi ivame ukusetshenziswa njengembondela, isendlalelo noma njengesiqephu se-accent ngenxa yesitayela sayo esicacile.Yenziwe ngosilika noma i-viscose, iyageleza futhi igeleza, le nto ye-matte ilungele omakoti besitayela se-boho.Ukwakhiwa kwayo okukhanyayo nokunomoya nakho kuyenza ibe ukukhetha okuhle emishadweni yasentwasahlobo nehlobo, futhi ukubukeka kwayo okusha kufanelana nama-silhouette aphelele nezitayela zikankulunkulukazi.Kodwa-ke, kufanele kuqashelwe ukuthi izindwangu ezithambile zingaba ntekenteke kakhulu futhi zihlehle kalula, zidonse, noma zihlakazeke.
Yenziwe ngosilika othambile noma i-viscose engasindi, i-crepe iyindwangu ecwebile neshwabene esebenza kahle kakhulu ngama-silhouette athambile.Lo msebenzi ozacile ulungele ukugqamisa amajika, kodwa futhi ubhangqwa kahle namadizayini ahlanzekile, amancane kanye nama-jumpsuits omakoti.Ukusikeka okulula njengezingubo ze-mermaid noma izingubo ze-A-line izinketho zakudala zale ndwangu, futhi iyindwangu ethandekayo elungele ukusetshenziswa unyaka wonke.
I-Brocade ifana ne-brocade ngoba inomklamo we-convex futhi iyimpahla elula.Iphethini yayo (i-jacquard efiphele) ivame ukuba nombala ofanayo nokusekela, futhi i-monolithic textile ingcono kakhulu izitayela ezakhiwe ezinama-silhouette ahlelekile.I-Brocade iyisinqumo esihle sonyaka wonke sezitayela zomshado ezihlelekile eziyinkimbinkimbi.
Ilula futhi iyaphefumula, i-Dotted Swiss yenziwe nge-muslin enamachashazi e-polka ahlukaniswe ngokulinganayo.Le nto ifaneleka emishadweni yangaphandle yasentwasahlobo noma yasehlobo, ikakhulukazi emikhosini emnandi neyesifazane efana nokwamukela ingadi.
I-dupioni emaholoholo kancane yakhiwe ngemicu eqinile futhi inobuhle bemvelo obukhangayo.Olunye lwezinhlobo zikasilika ezicebe kakhulu, libamba umumo walo okwenza kube ukukhetha okungcono kakhulu kwamasilhouette amangalisayo njengezingubo zebhola.
Le ndwangu, eyenziwe ngosilika, ukotini noma i-viscose, inobuso obunezimbambo obuhlelekile kanye nomphumela we-cross-ribbed.I-textile ibuye igcine umklamo ohlelekile (ofanele izingubo zesimanje noma ezincane), okwenza ifaneleke ukugqoka unyaka wonke.
Yenziwe ngoboya noma ngosilika, i-gazelle ibukeka ibushelelezi futhi icwebile, ayifani ne-organza.Ikakhulukazi, intambo kasilika, uhlobo oluvame kakhulu lwezingubo zomakoti, ithathe indawo ephakathi njengendwangu yengubo yomshado kaKate Middleton.Le nto eqinile kodwa eguquguqukayo ibamba ukuma kwayo kahle futhi ifaneleka kakhulu imiklamo ehlelekile, yothando kanye nezitayela ezigcwele zesiketi ezifana nezingubo zebhola, ezilungele ukugqoka unyaka wonke.
I-georgette esobala futhi esobala yenziwe nge-polyester noma usilika nge-crepe surface.Nakuba i-silhouette yayo ethambile iyenza ibe isendlalelo esiphezulu esiphezulu sengubo yomshado, indwangu egelezayo ilungele ama-silhouette wesifazane ahamba nomzimba.Njengomthetho, le nto kufanele igqoke ngenkathi efudumele.
"Indwangu ethandwa kakhulu yezingubo zomshado yileyisi," kusho u-Ingram.“Njengesigaba sendwangu, iguquguquka ngokwedlulele ngokuya ngamaphethini, ukwakheka, izisindo kanye nokuqedwa.I-lace ithandwa emhlabeni wonke emasikweni amaningi.Ithambile, yowesifazane, yothando futhi ithambe ngokwanele ukuba ilingane nanoma yimuphi umfanekiso.”
Le nto enhle, elukwe ngosilika noma ukotini, iza ngezitayela ezihlukahlukene, kuhlanganise neleyisi yesiFulentshi, njenge-Chantilly (encane kakhulu futhi evulekile), i-Alencon (esikwe ngentambo ngamaphethini agqamile), kanye ne-Viennese (esindayo futhi enziwe ngaphezulu).Ukuguquguquka kwayo okuyingqayizivele kuyenza ifanelekele ukusetshenziswa unyaka wonke, nakuba ezinye izindwangu ezisindayo (njenge-Italian Venezia) zingcono ezinyangeni ezibandayo.
“Ileyisi idinga ukusekelwa kwe-tulle, i-organza, noma ulwelwesi ukuze igcine umumo wayo, njengoba uleyisi ngokuvamile uthambile kakhulu,” kweluleka u-Ingram.
I-Mikado, usilika ominyene onombala ocwebezelayo, uthandwa kakhulu futhi ukushuba kwawo kunikeza isakhiwo esingashintshwa ukuze sivumelane nezakhiwo kanye nemiklamo eyinkimbinkimbi.U-Ingram uphawula ukuthi ama-mikado angabunjwa futhi athungwe ngemithungo embalwa, ngakho “izingubo ezihehayo, ezimpintshayo ze-mermaid kanye nezingubo zebhola ezingenazintambo” zifanelekile.Lesi sici singagqokwa unyaka wonke, kodwa isisindo singase sifaneleke kangcono emazingeni okushisa apholile.
Ngokuvamile eyenziwe nge-polyester noma i-taffeta kasilika ewugqinsi, amaphethini amafu avela ekukhanyeni ukuze anikeze inkohliso yamanzi acwebezelayo.(Inephethini elimagagasi kancane.) Indwangu ingaba nzima, ngakho igqokwa kahle kakhulu ebusika.
Nakuba i-organza icwebezelayo futhi inomoya njenge-chiffon, i-silhouette yayo yakheke kakhudlwana, iyenza ifanelekele imishado yesimo sezulu esifudumele.Ngokwesiko yalukwa ngosilika, inomphetho ocwebezelayo kanye ne-drape ecwebezelayo.Ngaphezu kwalokho, le nto ivame ukusetshenziswa ekubukeni okugqinsiwe ukuze kwengeze ivolumu kuzingubo zebhola, izitimela namaveli.Ilungele izingubo zokugqoka zegwebu kanye nezikhathi zenkosazana, le ndwangu ewumqansa iwumfanekiso wamaphathi angadi othando kanye nobukhazikhazi.Nokho, qaphela njengoba izindwangu ezintekenteke zingabanjwa kalula futhi zidonswe.
Leli jezi line-waffle weave ngaphandle.Noma kuyisitayela esinzima, ukubukeka kwayo kwe-preppy kuvame ukusebenza kahle kakhulu entwasahlobo nasehlobo.Impahla nayo ayihlelekile, ivumela izitayela ezicacile nama-silhouette ahlelekile.
I-polyester mesh, le nto ihlanganiswa ukuze yakhe iphethini yedayimane.Nakuba le ndwangu ivame ukusetshenziselwa ukwenza amaveli, ingasetshenziswa futhi ukwenza izingubo.Futhi, ukuthungwa kwayo okukhanyayo kuyisinqumo esihle samaholide entwasahlobo, ehlobo, noma ngisho nasekwindla.Idizayini esezingeni eliphezulu nezothando zakudala yizinto ezinhle kakhulu zale ndwangu.
I-polyester yinto yokwenziwa engabizi engalukwa cishe kunoma iyiphi indwangu.I-polyester satin, ikakhulukazi izingubo zomshado, iyindlela evame kakhulu yokwenza usilika njengoba ikwazi ukumelana nemibimbi futhi ayintekenteke kakhulu.Le nto futhi ingagqokwa unyaka wonke kodwa ingase ingakhululeki kancane ehlobo njengoba ingaphefumuli kakhulu.
Nakuba izindwangu ze-fiber zemvelo zivame ukuphefumula, ngokuvamile zibiza kakhulu futhi zidinga ukunakekelwa okwengeziwe njengoba zivame ukushwabana.Yingakho ezinye izindlela zokwenziwa sezithandwa, nakuba u-Ingram ethi “ngokuvamile zisinda kakhulu, ziqine kakhulu, noma zishise kakhulu kumuntu ozigqokile.”
I-Viscose iyindwangu ebushelelezi, efana nosilika enwebeka kakhulu futhi ethengekayo.Indwangu engasindi futhi ephefumulayo ye-semi-synthetic ilungele imishado yasehlobo, kodwa ingagqokwa unyaka wonke.Yize ishibhile, iyashwabana kalula.Indwangu ehlala isikhathi eside iyisinqumo esihle sezitayela ezinwetshiwe noma imiklamo ehlelekile.
“Emashumini eminyaka omakoti abaningi bethanda i-satin kasilika ecwebezelayo,” kusho u-Ingram."Ubuhle be-satin bulele ekukhanyeni, ukuzwa nokudonsa."Iwugqinsi futhi ibushelelezi, i-satin yenziwe ngosilika nemicu yenayiloni futhi inesibalo esiphezulu sentambo.I-Silk satin ingenye yezingubo zokugqoka zomshado zendabuko, kodwa ngenxa yokuthi i-satin inesiphetho esikhethekile, ingenziwa futhi kusuka ku-polyester noma izingxube.Ukuminyana kwale ndwangu ehlala isikhathi eside kuhle kunoma iyiphi isizini, kodwa indwangu ewugqinsi efana ne-Duchess ingcono kakhulu ezinyangeni ezipholile.Inobukhazikhazi futhi i-sexy, le nto ibamba kahle ukwakheka kwayo futhi ifanele imiklamo ehlelekile njengama-ruffles noma izingubo zebhola.“Lokho omakoti abaningi banamuhla abangakuthandi ukushwabana nokuphaphatheka, ngeshwa okungenakugwenywa nge-satin kasilika,” kunezela u-Ingram.
Usilika we-Shantung wenziwa kusuka kusilika noma ukotini ekwalukeni okungenalutho okune-weave enhle enikeza ukuthungwa okugugile kanye nokubukeka okuluhlaza, kwemvelo.Isisindo sayo esimaphakathi sihle kuzo zonke izinkathi zonyaka futhi igcina ivolumu ebukekayo futhi ezwakala inothile.Indwangu idonsa kahle futhi ifanela zonke izimo nosayizi.
Enye yezindwangu zendabuko futhi ezibiza kakhulu, usilika awugcini nje isikhathi eside, kodwa futhi uguquguqukayo.Ihlala isikhathi eside, iza ngezinhlobonhlobo zezitayela nezitayela, futhi ilungele noma iyiphi isizini, kodwa ingaba brittle impela phakathi nezinyanga ezifudumele.Usilika uphothwa ube imicu futhi ulukwe ube yindwangu futhi waziwa ngokucwebezela kwawo okuthambile.Izinhlobonhlobo zifaka i-silika gazar, i-silika mikado, i-fay, i-shantung, ne-dupioni.
I-Taffeta itholakala ngezitayela ezihlukahlukene futhi yenziwa ngosilika noma imicu yokwenziwa.Isinda ebusika futhi ilula ehlobo, le ndwangu ephilayo, enemisebenzi eminingi ingenziwa cishe nganoma yimuphi umbala, ngezinye izikhathi icwebezele ngenqubo yokweluka.Indwangu ethambile futhi inezimfanelo zesakhiwo ezilungele izingubo ze-A-line kanye nezingubo zebhola zesiketi esigcwele.
I-tulle ye-weave evulekile ye-sheer mesh ine-vibe ekhanyayo kodwa ingagoqeka phansi ukuze kufakwe isakhiwo.Ithambile kakhulu futhi ivame ukusetshenziswa njengendwangu yezingubo futhi, yiqiniso, njengeveli.Iza ngezisindo ezahlukene kanye nokuqina.Izindwangu zomshado ezijwayelekile zithola ukuduma ngezitayela ezikhohlisayo ezihehayo ezinemikhono embalwa, ama-cutouts noma ama-cutouts.Le ndwangu engasindi futhi ngokuvamile engabizi ingasetshenziswa futhi kumaphethini weleyisi futhi ingagqokwa unyaka wonke.Khumbula ukuthi indwangu ijwayele ukuba nama-snags.
I-velvet ithambile, iwugqinsi futhi izwakale ngokwakhiwa okusindayo, ilungele umshado wasekwindla noma wasebusika.Le ndwangu kanokusho ngokuvamile ilungele ukubukeka kobukhosi kanye nogqozi zakudala.
Ilula futhi inomoya, iveli yenziwe ngekotini noma uboya futhi inokubukeka okukhanyayo.I-drape yemvelo yendwangu ilungele ama-silhouette agelezayo ngaphandle kokwakheka ngokweqile, futhi ubuhle bayo obubekwe emuva buyenza ilungele imishado engakahleleki.
I-Zibeline ine-unidirectional, i-fiber weave eqondile kanye nesiphetho esicwebezelayo.Uma kuziwa emigqonyeni yomshado, i-siebelin yesilika iyindlela evamile kakhulu etholakala emiklamo eminingi.Le ndwangu ehlelekile ibuye ibe yinhle kuma-silhouette ahlelekile njengama-flare afakiwe noma ama-silhouette we-A-line.
Isikhathi sokuthumela: Jun-30-2023
